That horrible, crunching, metal on glass sound...

[Spreadie]

Some time last week, as I was leaving work, I wound down the car window to wipe some crud off the wing mirror and, when I went to shut it again, it made a strange crunching sound and stopped half way up. So, I pressed "down" to have another go and it went down a few inches and made that god-awful horrible, crunching, metal on glass sound. After that the mechanism did nothing, and the window could be pulled up or pushed down by hand. Yes, one of those "oh, no" moments. I could call it something else closer to what I actually said, but this is a family forum.

It was slightly (only slightly) amusing to watch the window creep down due to vibration as I drove home - It would have been more amusing if it wasn't tipping down and I could find the gaffa tape which, I later learnt, was under the seat.

From the sound, I was sure the mechanism had somehow chewed through the glass, but it turns out that exactly how it sounds when the cable frays and gets dragged through the window gearing just prior to snapping. Anyhoo, £20 on ebay and my new bits have arrived and will be fitted this weekend - it looks like a proper PITA though. The door card looks easy enough to remove, but the mid plate looks like it'll be a bit a of pig to take out.

Joy.

[mycarsavw]

If you bought those £20 bits from a chap called Ozkam good luck, he doesn't really understand the concept of "fit for purpose".

The job is a fairly simple one, I've done it many times on various VAG vehicles so if you're in a VAG too, feel free to ask questions

(Should have bought genuine parts too )

[Spreadie]

If you bought those £20 bits from a chap called Ozkam good luck, he doesn't really understand the concept of "fit for purpose".

No, it isn't from Ozkam. It's from Volksbits.

The job is a fairly simple one, I've done it many times on various VAG vehicles so if you're in a VAG too, feel free to ask questions

Thanks for the offer! I appreciate it. Hopefully, I'll muddle through.

(Should have bought genuine parts too )

My wallet disagrees.

[mycarsavw]

No, it isn't from Ozkam. It's from Volksbits.

Wise choice, GG

Check you've got a triplesquare bit to get the door lock off and make sure the sealant (between the metal plate and the door) is in place before you put it all back together again.

[Zak33]

you will need

A) a cushion to sit on... don't get a cold sore arse while working on a car- an old piece of carpet is genius and it cushions falling clips/screws and they don't roll off so far
you will almost certainly swap from sitting to kneeling 1000 times so it's better for your knees too.
B) all your tools nearby and a few plastic pots to put clips and screws in
C) at least 1 good small torch, and possibly a little mirror....it may assist
D) if you have gloves for working in... keep them close and on if you can.. might stop a rogue skin cut

Work away from drains on the road / drive where thigs will fall and never come back

Sweep the drive /road first and then start working

you'll be pulling plastic clips out of metal holes so it might be worth watching a U tube clip in advance.

[Spreadie]

Wise choice, GG

Check you've got a triplesquare bit to get the door lock off and make sure the sealant (between the metal plate and the door) is in place before you put it all back together again.

Just been speaking to one of the fitters at work, who has the same car. You can do it without removing the lock - there's enough room to get a flat blade screwdriver in to remove the wiring block/plug.

He's done it a couple of times.

you will need
{snip}

You forgot one...

Golf umbrella - it's going to tip it down all day tomorrow. *sigh*

I'll be OK once I've removed the mid plate though, because I can work on it in the shed.

[mycarsavw]

Hmm, what car are we ruining here?

[Spreadie]

2004 Passat 1.9TDI Highline Estate.

[mycarsavw]

To get to the back of the regulator and remove the cable, you need to take the plate out. To take the plate out, the lock - which is riveted to the plate - either needs to be drilled off or unscrewed from the end of the door.

You can prise the plate away from the door enough to get in there but I wouldn't recommend it, the lock is plastic riveted and very easy to break off - mine is currently held on with a series of nuts, bolts and washers from when I tried to cut corners.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1015107 - Excellent guide there, helps with the stripping down of the door - good luck

[Spreadie]

All done - everything went swimmingly.

The mid plate peeled away from the door without issue - there was a sticky rubber seal all around it but it came away without any damage - and there was enough room to get my whole hand in behind the lock to unplug the electrics and remove the mid plate completely, so I could work on it in the shed.

The lock wasn't attached to the mid plate in any way at all, so perhaps your door was constructed differently?

Anyhoo, I'm glad it's over with - I've had cars with an entire wiring loom smaller than what was inside that door!

[mycarsavw]

Very strange. The pictures are long dead, but see this link > http://www.taligentx.com/passat/main...lockmechanism/ < is yours not like that?

Edit: Internet archive link to the rescue > http://web.archive.org/web/201309070...4&exhibition=4 < voila.

Either way, 'grats on fixing it and saving yourself a lot of money

[Spreadie]

Yes, it looks almost identical to that, except the lock mechanism was attached to the door frame and not the mid plate - I just had to pop out that little rubber gator around the lock indicator and then lift the plate off it.

[mycarsavw]

*shakes fist*

[peterb]

Perhaps a manufacturing modification because the plastic rivets tended to break when prying the plate away?





/fetches coat and dodges fist!