G...GGGGG.....GUNDAM!!! Full photo-article of my progress may be found on my blog.
I only noticed the little speck of white paint after taking the photos; it dusted right off when I blew at it. I like the "clean" anime look to my Gundams so I do not think I'll be bothering with "Sumi ire" or decals for that matter.
Will post updates as they happen; hope you liked the pics!
Thats awesome, nice job
bsodmike (31-07-2009)
Am wondering if I should bother drawing in the panel lines or not hmmmmm...
I love my clean anime too mate, that stuff with the tentacles really just...
oh. you mean like hygenic clean?
i stand by my tentacles comment!
We're only here for the Banter - The Luvvies - Chewin' The Fat
Violence and Lubrication is the solution to fixing everything, if it still doesn't work, you need more lubrication.
Originally Posted by this_is_gav
LOL! If you watch any of the Gundam episodes, I do not believe the models are covered in the same 'decals' that one gets with the model kits. Sure, the panel lines are made obvious in them and I can add them to the Strike if I feel like it later on.
I wish Bandai reintroduced the wet transfer decals; heck, even the dry transfer decals would be a step up than when they are currently throwing in all the kits. The OYW kit came with dry transfer decals and a full colour manual
Nice!
The blue led is much better than the standard yellow.
Speaking of decals, Im thinking of apply a set to my MG Infinite Justice.
Any tips of how to do it?
bsodmike (01-08-2009)
Best bet would be to get either a set of dry transfer or wet transfer decals. Most gunpla hobby shops carry these, although they would be more generic rather than model specific. Not sure if Bandai do model specific extras. I've only heard of bad things with regards to the normal decals. Even with top coating, the seams stick out like sore thumbs...Speaking of decals, Im thinking of apply a set to my MG Infinite Justice.
Any tips of how to do it?
edit: This shop carries the decals. Described as "fine wet-transfer decals", by Bandai. http://www.hlj.com Make sure you search for 'bandai decal' in the top left box.
Last edited by bsodmike; 01-08-2009 at 05:51 PM.
Infinite (15-08-2009)
This is what it looks like, for now, from waist down...
Where I plan to let Strike 'park',
More photos and details found here.
[QUOTE=bsodmike;1755055]This is what it looks like, for now, from waist down...
You owe it to yourself to click here really.
Not sure why but I like this pic the best
Can someone please put NSFW in the thread title, I got some funny looks from around the office when I was caught looking at a robots pelvis.
Cheers, how do exactly do I apply them? I kinda noob/newbie to modelling
I found two very nice how-to's. This is how you do dry transfers and for water sliding decals. edit: I've just been on that site for the past half-hour or so. He has amazing skill and some really great how-to's. I really need to get my airbrush compressor sorted out, the level of control is stunning. In future, I plan to also use primer on my kits; been having tons of trouble on Strike due to the lack of doing this (simply because I don't have any primer).Cheers, how do exactly do I apply them? I kinda noob/newbie to modelling
You'll notice how in the dry transfer method, you get a bit of 'opaqueness' transferring over on his example of the '01' sticker, as shown below. You can see this extra transfer between the '0' and '1' below.
Water slides are far superior as they don't do this. That's why professional modellers living in HK, Japan etc have the advantage of living in these countries as their local hobby shops stock the water sliding decals as well...
Last edited by bsodmike; 16-08-2009 at 07:22 AM.
If you can't find the decals there you can also try http://samueldecal.com/
heard that they're ok and have some decals that you can't find anywhere else i.e. the waterslide decals for the PG astray which includes the decal for the extra sword you get in the pre-order bonus box!
Love the threads about gunpla bsodmike. I'm getting back into it again after a few years of absence..... Got myself a Pg astray with the pre-order bonus, and also hauled back a load of goodies from my holiday in hong kong recently.....
Took some classes in modelling over there, learnt how to remove seamlines and more importantly how to use a airbrush properly. was making a MG sinanju in my lessons but didn't have enough time to finish it over there. Brought back PG wing-custom and gundam MkII titans, along with an airbrush, compressor, spray booth and lots of paint!
Nice, you definitely seem to be armed not only with an awesome kit but the skills to boot! BTW, how do you order from SamuelDecal, email?
Tell me though, airbrushing compared to using cans - do you get that much more control and what about paint from the pots. Do they last longer in terms of parts painted compared to the cans? I find the cans were 'ok' for MG kits but I'm definitely regretting choosing them for doing a PG kit. I'm running through them quite quickly, but that's expected with the much greater surface area, and due to my (very sad) lack of use of primer.
Please do share how you get on with your gunpla, would love to see your work. I've tried removing seamlines as well using Tamiya cement, rather than using putty. Thankfully though, with PG kits, there isn't much in the way of 'seamlines', and those (if any) usually belong well hidden on/in the frame. MG kits aren't as forgiving though.
Yep you email them, you can find the info on the shipping page on their site.
Not really used cans before tbh. I wanted to just start with airbrushing as most of the serious modellers use an airbrush. Did spray on some primer but not paint. From that small experience I'd say that its easier to control the spray with an airbrush. What I found was that with a can its a lot harder to get a constant spray unless you press down all the way, although I did find a nifty article in one of the japanese modelling mags on how to get a constant spray by using a coin......
I learnt how to do shading as part of the course i took, I would not have liked to do that with cans.... Even with an airbrush its hard to get the right amount of shading on the pieces when you first start out. What can help is that you not only have control with the airbrush but you can also set the pressure of the compressor when you need to do fine detailing.
In terms of how long a pot will last, depends on the pot obviouslyI was using Mr Colour paints (10ml pots) and got one pot of each colour I needed and haven't run out yet, I shouldn't run out according to my teacher. Haven't painted any PGs yet so cant comment on how long much would be needed. I'm guessing they should provide better value for money in the long term as you won't waste so much paint because you can control the flow of paint so more of it goes on the parts rather than just missing it.
Use topcoat from a can if possible..... The workshop i learnt in only used cans of topcoat, you can topcoat using an airbrush but heard that people have had problems if its not thinned properly. Oh and that brings me onto the one of the hassles of an airbrush. The paints need to be thinned before using. the precise ratio of thinner to paint depends on brand and also what type of paint it is. for example mr colour (flat/gloss) paint to thinner is 1:2, whereas mr colour metallic is 1:3. knowing how much thinner to put can be a bit difficult but there are ways of testing it to be sure.
bsodmike (22-08-2009)
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