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Thread: Runnning warm on water?

  1. #17
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    Ok, now have my aero lite fan bolted onto the side of the rad, will monitor temps of water.

    Am going to look into reseating the chip

  2. #18
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    Your rad is not really the problem though its either the flow rate or your block.
    I would definitely check the seating of the block because the pipes associated with water cooling do a good job of putting stress on any mounting methods .

    I would agree with Silent that your block base thickness is not enough. The actual chip area you are trying to cool is quite small in comparison to the size of the block so the block should be designed to spread the heat out from the core so that there will be more surface area for the water to cool. Also CPU cores are pretty massive heat producers, something in the order of 1megawatt per metre squared, so your block has to be able to handle this intense localised heat. With only a 1mm base you are running the risk of getting thermal distortion in the base of your block. 1mm copper isnt that strong . Even the slightest bit of distortion could reduce the thermal transfer between your block and the CPU.

    The problem is it would be quite difficult to see if that was the case.

  3. #19
    Senior Member GAteKeeper's Avatar
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    SilentDeath:

    The water inlet is in the centre and it gets 'injected' onto the core then out and up thought the fins. The reason the fins are on the not off the base is because I used a lathe not a milling machine.

    Going to have a go next at a low profile TDX style one next.

    Madocks:

    Be carefull working in copper, it work harderns and can get very hot. A suitable cutting fluid is attachly cooking oil (sun or veg not olive) or 3in1. to get it flat use a lathe or milling machine on a light cut and move the tool slowly accross the copper with the tool/copper rotating at high speed. Then get some 1000+grit paper and a peice of picture glass (any flat float glass will do) and use it wet. It might take a few sheets (I used 2 (well 3 halves)) and just polish till all the marks disappear. Then use some brasso to get it up to a bright sheen.

    I would recomend that you go with an all copper construction - Cu isnt that expensive if you know where to go, I bought 2 2"*2"*2.5" lumps for £10.

    GAteKeeper

  4. #20
    Senior Member SilentDeath's Avatar
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    Interesting

    If you need any copper, I have two spare lumps,
    3" (80mm) * 2" (50mm) * 1/2" (12.57mm)
    3" (80mm) * 2" (50mm) * 3/8" (10mm?)
    And also some smaller bits ideal for a gpu block or something.
    And I also have some plastic which is ideal for waterblock tops (polyethylene).
    Unfortunatly I dont have access to a mill to make a block with them, so if any one does and could make me a block, or wants them cheap for there own block pm me

    I used water as coolant for my first few blocks, but that may rust your tools so antifreeze is also good
    Last edited by SilentDeath; 16-07-2004 at 07:47 PM.

  5. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by GAteKeeper
    SilentDeath:
    Madocks:

    Be carefull working in copper, it work harderns and can get very hot. A suitable cutting fluid is attachly cooking oil (sun or veg not olive) or 3in1. to get it flat use a lathe or milling machine on a light cut and move the tool slowly accross the copper with the tool/copper rotating at high speed. Then get some 1000+grit paper and a peice of picture glass (any flat float glass will do) and use it wet. It might take a few sheets (I used 2 (well 3 halves)) and just polish till all the marks disappear. Then use some brasso to get it up to a bright sheen.

    I would recomend that you go with an all copper construction - Cu isnt that expensive if you know where to go, I bought 2 2"*2"*2.5" lumps for £10.

    GAteKeeper
    Im a bit of a machinist mate plenty of time spent over the years on a mill , now a CNC programmer, so pretty clued up on how to mill copper

  6. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by |SilentDeath|
    Interesting

    If you need any copper, I have two spare lumps,
    3" (80mm) * 2" (50mm) * 1/2" (12.57mm)
    3" (80mm) * 2" (50mm) * 3/8" (10mm?)
    And also some smaller bits ideal for a gpu block or something.
    And I also have some plastic which is ideal for waterblock tops (polyethylene).
    Unfortunatly I dont have access to a mill to make a block with them, so if any one does and could make me a block, or wants them cheap for there own block pm me

    I used water as coolant for my first few blocks, but that may rust your tools so antifreeze is also good
    where you live? wanna fix my system in exchange for a block milled to your design?

  7. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by turkster
    Your rad is not really the problem though its either the flow rate or your block.
    I would definitely check the seating of the block because the pipes associated with water cooling do a good job of putting stress on any mounting methods .

    I would agree with Silent that your block base thickness is not enough. The actual chip area you are trying to cool is quite small in comparison to the size of the block so the block should be designed to spread the heat out from the core so that there will be more surface area for the water to cool. Also CPU cores are pretty massive heat producers, something in the order of 1megawatt per metre squared, so your block has to be able to handle this intense localised heat. With only a 1mm base you are running the risk of getting thermal distortion in the base of your block. 1mm copper isnt that strong . Even the slightest bit of distortion could reduce the thermal transfer between your block and the CPU.

    The problem is it would be quite difficult to see if that was the case.
    Block Design: New block being made tomorrow, got a whole 12 hr shift free, so will be jumping on the mill.

    Seating: Ok, heres why the temp were silly, http://www.ocwarehouse.com/reviews/v7+/v7+_9.jpg from looking at the sideon view you will notice that they have taken a section away to allow for the plastic raised section of the cpu mounting. I forgot to do this, in reality, my block was sitting on a funky angle, hence not getting any heat onto the block.

  8. #24
    cat /dev/null streetster's Avatar
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    phew good job it had enough contact not to overheat and blow up then my wc keeps my rig under 50c under load (which its always under running seti..) but the 120mm fan is only running on 5v so its all quiet and stable

    whats the stepping of your 1700? hopefully you can get a decent OC from it...

  9. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by |SilentDeath|
    Similar to my fan?

    Mine is about 13.2w (24v) and is probably about the same as your airplanes in niose I run it at 12v atm to keep it quiet but 9v once I finnish my fan/pump controler.

    This one fan has no problem sucking through TWO large heatercores even on min speed (8.5v)
    Not tested it at pushing, but i doubt it would have any trouble, I stuck a pencil in the blades for a test, and they didnt slow down :O
    Na, not really... as I said, it has a direct plug to the wall, and to begin with all 4 were mounted in a big assembly with all fans in a row. Could've mounted them out, they looked like extra deep normal black fans, only far more heavy.

    Just had them for a few weeks, sent them along and have no idea where they went Now when I think about them I really want them back...
    Light travels faster than sound. Is this why some people appear bright until you hear them speak?

  10. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by streetster
    phew good job it had enough contact not to overheat and blow up then my wc keeps my rig under 50c under load (which its always under running seti..) but the 120mm fan is only running on 5v so its all quiet and stable

    whats the stepping of your 1700? hopefully you can get a decent OC from it...
    Its a dlt3c

  11. #27
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    madocks: You have the complete stepping? DLT3C is the right thing to have.. but what week? I got a JIUHB 0310xpmw running here...
    Light travels faster than sound. Is this why some people appear bright until you hear them speak?

  12. #28
    cat /dev/null streetster's Avatar
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    StarkMjolk whats yours clocked at? i used to be able to do 2.3 with my old epox board, taken a step back with my nf2 mobo tho - vcore doesnt go as high and i dont want to do a vMod... ive got a DLT3C JIUHB too

  13. #29
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    I have a VapoChill SE with R404a on it, same effect as a VapoChill XE.

    Currently clocked at 12*217... 2605MHz with 1.75Vcore. I had 2680 with 1.85 a while earlier. Might try refitting my Vmod again, removed it when it didn't work too well earlier.
    Light travels faster than sound. Is this why some people appear bright until you hear them speak?

  14. #30
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    I have two great clockers, after water has been succesfully fitted, i will see what i can get out of each;

    1800 = jiuhb 03125pmw
    1700 = jiuhb 0308rpmw

    Have had 2.2 gig off the 1700 on air.

    Volt mods are pretty easy on these chips, i have moded mine. See http://www.ocinside.de/index_e.html for info.

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    I know that deal.. but my A7N8X need a Variable resistor to give more than 1.85. Not hard work, done it before as I said, but I've noticed nether of my two A7N8X DLX mobos have liked any vmods... instability issues, one flipped out some, hardly worked at all, sitting doing as little as possible in a server now
    Light travels faster than sound. Is this why some people appear bright until you hear them speak?

  16. #32
    Senior Member SilentDeath's Avatar
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    starkmjolk if you go over 1.8v you should cool the mosfets or they overheat, and there output wont be nearly as stable as it should be, and it will make you crash.

    madocks: I live in crawley, west sussex. I would be very interested if you could mill me a block, how much would it cost? Ive got a design sitting here
    Last edited by SilentDeath; 17-07-2004 at 12:14 AM.

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