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Thread: Runnning warm on water?

  1. #65
    Banned Shogun's Avatar
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    If it works, why mess with it?

  2. #66
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    because an ali block and a copper lid will rott like fook, even after a week, bet 6 months it loooks like an old boot.

    ***********************************************

    My temps are going high, i boot my pc and get temps around 30, then it slowly increases and increases, which would imply that again, the fans arent doing their job properly, dispite being run at full speed.

    However, I am not 100% positive that all air has been removed, would air in the system make it heat up?

  3. #67
    Senior Member GAteKeeper's Avatar
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    • GAteKeeper's system
      • Motherboard:
      • MSI P67-GD5
      • CPU:
      • Intel i7 2600k
      • Memory:
      • 8Gb Corsair DDR3 1600
      • Storage:
      • ~44TB
      • Graphics card(s):
      • 980Ti
      • PSU:
      • Seasonic S12 600W
      • Case:
      • Lian Li PC-65
      • Operating System:
      • Win10 64bit
      • Monitor(s):
      • Dell U3415W & 2405fpw
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    Not really but it would make your pump sound something awfull.

    I still come back to pants radiator performance, cos even with the low flow pump you have (or is it had?) the increasing delta temp on the radiator temp to outside air will improves its efficency to the point that temps will stabilise.

    GAteKeeper

  4. #68
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    ok, new pump gate, now got the eheim pump which does 1200 l/hr

    Something may be worth considering is that i went out for 2 hours earlier, came back and the pipes in the case were pretty warm. Despite the pc being off, and only the pump being run.

    Any suggestions?

  5. #69
    Senior Member SilentDeath's Avatar
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    My pump has an alu impeller
    Im going to have a look when my cpu block is done, as Ill be cleaning out the algy form my w/c soon. Note that when the pump arrived, a largish amount of the anodising on the ALu was chipped off (SUPPOSADBLY new pump!). If its bad I might replace the impeller, if possible (dunno with this pump) or think about painting it or reanodising it. Or maybe send it back...

    The design for my blocks should hopefully be done by monday, I might have finnished blocks by the end of next week!

    madocks not sure how they would still be warm after two hours. Although with the pc off the fans wouldnt be running - and without them the rad will not be very effective atall. How hot do you mean by warm? if there below 40 - 45 thats probably normal.
    It might be the pump adding heat into the water, eheims arnt the most efficient :E

  6. #70
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    oK chaps, quick update.............

    After all the advice in here about perspex lids, i made one anyhow, 3 weeks later the lid cracked on it. Killing my mobo.

    So £70 later (Lucky it didnt kill my gf5900)

    I have now made a new lid. I popped down to my local plastic specialists and bought an offcut (Capable of making at least 30 lids) of Polly Carbon Plastic. Looks exactly the same as perspex, however.....its the gear they make riot sheilds out of. It doesnt snap, crack etc..........

    No problems making it / drilling / tapping, also helps being 12mm thick.

    Anyone wants some, lemme know

  7. #71
    Banned Shogun's Avatar
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    I would want a top please if it came with the block Pretty please

  8. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by madocks
    oK chaps, quick update.............

    After all the advice in here about perspex lids, i made one anyhow, 3 weeks later the lid cracked on it. Killing my mobo.

    So £70 later (Lucky it didnt kill my gf5900)

    I have now made a new lid. I popped down to my local plastic specialists and bought an offcut (Capable of making at least 30 lids) of Polly Carbon Plastic. Looks exactly the same as perspex, however.....its the gear they make riot sheilds out of. It doesnt snap, crack etc..........

    No problems making it / drilling / tapping, also helps being 12mm thick.

    Anyone wants some, lemme know

    Damn sorry to hear that .

    I told you to use polycarbonate

    Anyway just to let you know that you were right about my water block corrosion etc. Last week my graphics card started resetting itself and I was wondering what was wrong and had a look inside to check and of course my water block was leaking. Only slightly but the corrosion had pushed the fairly thin top away at one point and broken the seal . Luckily the GPU seems to be fine but you should have seen the corrosion in the block . Anyway I made a new one out of all copper but the temps are not nearly so good . Will have to fiddly with it a bit.

    Will post pics etc when i get a chance to sort them out .

  9. #73
    Senior Member SilentDeath's Avatar
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    I took my pump out last week, no cossosion atall on the anodised alu impeller, even where the anodising was chipped off.
    I havent taken apart my blocks (they are soldered ) but I dont htink they are that bad. Looking down the inlets, the nb one is the same colour as before. I dont know about my gpu one, which has a silver base - I decided to solder elbows on for the barbs so I cant see down it

    The machinst is making two blocks for me, costing £83 inc delivery. One I wont be needing, Ill stick it in the for sale section when I get some pictures of it.

    Anyone know where to buy 3/8" BSPP -> barb fittings? maybe one of you could make me some if you have the tools?
    3/8" BSPP is equal ID to 3/4" barb iirc.
    BSPP is different to BSPT in that the thread is straight and it has an oring at the top to seal it, instead of the thread being tapered to seal it - BSPP is better imo.
    I cant find any shops that have them (well apart form watercooling shops, I wouldnt know where to get 1/4" BSPT fittings either). Ive found someone who says he will be getting some custom made for watercooling, but I think it might take a while... Id prefer not to have to wait.
    Last edited by SilentDeath; 16-09-2004 at 11:25 PM.

  10. #74
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    Anyone know where to buy 3/8" BSPP

    think we got some brass in work, cover P+P?

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