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Thread: Please tell me about extreme cooling...

  1. #33
    Prize winning member. rajagra's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueMagician
    dare I say, that the discussion is heated? (bad pun intended)
    Please don't.
    Quote Originally Posted by BlueMagician
    how about the "little bit madder / nuts" stuff?
    Did you read this: VapoChill Micro? They say it's different to a heat pipe, but it isn't clear how, at least not to me.

  2. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by StormPC
    Things pretty boring in Scotland at the moment? If so it could be a good way to kill a few hours, depending on how mechanically inclined you are. Not exactly OT. This thread relates to computer cooling, not automobile.
    I was actually thinking of using it for computer cooling. Just a crazy idea I saw on an american website.
    - Ghetto rigging is an unrecognised form of art -

  3. #35
    Senior Member SilentDeath's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueMagician
    I really appreciate everyones info here. And dare I say, that the discussion is heated? (bad pun intended)

    I guess, if I'm gonna do it, I should do it properly, and use something that's really worth changing to.

    So, we have votes for entry and mid level Watercooling.. how about the "little bit madder / nuts" stuff?

    S.
    Yep, they always are

    There are people saying get the cheapest kit...
    There are people telling you to buy parts seperatly
    And then theres me saying build it yourself..

    There are many issues with cheap kits.. let me say where I work, we have several watercooled machines. In industry, looks dont matter.. but reliability and secondly performance (or efficency) do.

    Building a system from seperate parts WILL be more reliable not only becuase you NEED to know what your doing (you do anyway..) but also becuase corners are not cut (an example being the water block hold-downs).

    Building it yourself.. you learn a lot.. and the less popular objects - like a hdd block, are stupidly expensive becuase theres no market for them.. If your able to make it yourself.. saves a lot of money and can be very usefull...

    If you want to do it cheaper, look at automotive parts becuase thats basicly the only other similar market (which is lso much bigger and therefore cheaper anyway), from which the products are compatable (heatercores are what w/c rads evolved from).
    Also second hand parts, plenty of people decide they dont like watercooling.. and so sell it cheaper.

    www.procooling.com, esp the forums,and also maybe the subforum on bit-tech, are required reading for people using watercooling, imo

  4. #36
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  5. #37
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    Depends on how extreme you mean to be honest. This is my current rig (about to change though) and I would class this as 7.5/10 extreme (1 being aircooling and 10 being cascades )





    More can be found here

    Phase change is coming down in price and a viable option. I would run my Mach II GT 24/7 as I am that confident about its abilities and my condensation proofing. (I don't becuase of leccy costs)

    Watercooling is a 24/7 operation as well and imho works better when constantly run
    .: Predator :.


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  6. #38
    Senior Member SilentDeath's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firelord
    Depends on how extreme you mean to be honest. This is my current rig (about to change though) and I would class this as 7.5/10 extreme (1 being aircooling and 10 being cascades )





    More can be found here

    Phase change is coming down in price and a viable option. I would run my Mach II GT 24/7 as I am that confident about its abilities and my condensation proofing. (I don't becuase of leccy costs)

    Watercooling is a 24/7 operation as well and imho works better when constantly run
    @ 9mm ID sharp 90's in the second pic!

  7. #39
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    I know but with just the GPU in the loop it holds around 5-6c above ambient under idle and 8-9c under load

    I would have used 45s if I knew where to get em
    .: Predator :.


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  8. #40
    Senior Member SilentDeath's Avatar
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    Use copper pipe elbows. They are 15mm ID (fits tygon and clearflex easy..) and not nearly as sharp.. 45's in copper would be best.. but I cant find them either..

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