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Thread: Where can I learn about car maintenance?

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    Where can I learn about car maintenance?

    Basically, I wouldn't mind learning a new skill and learning about the parts that need to be inspected / changed during car servicing, and once I get more advanced, about stuff like bodywork repairs, changing suspension, replacing exhausts etc.

    I know that there are Haynes Manuals, but there's nothing like real life practice and having the various components to practice on (preferably not my own car)

    Are there part-time college courses for this sort of thing? Or short courses for car mechanic novices?

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    Looser Konan555's Avatar
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    I started by picking up a 2nd car to work on, thus avoiding making mistakes on the one I need every day. Most mechanical jobs only really require a smidgen of technical aptitude and a lot of WD40

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    Time for Walkies... Atomic's Avatar
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    Your local polytechnic university (college) may run that type of course.

    I did a classic car restoration course at mine and it was great.

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    Treasure Hunter extraordinaire herulach's Avatar
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    Bleh, 50 quid on an old mot failure (get a rear wheel drive one) tenner on a haynes manual and youre golden, so long as you have somewhere to park it, although if ou dont have tools, trolley jack and the like already it could be expensive, but youd need those anyway

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    F.A.S.T. Butuz's Avatar
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    Yeah. College course might be the best bet.

    Personally i learned the hard way by doing an engine swap probably the best way to learn is to take something apart and figure out how to put it back together again.

    If you dont have any tools, do the college course. if you do have tools, buy an old car and fiddle with it. Tools are expensive, a bog standard decent tool kit that you will need, spanners, sockets, screwdrivers, toolchest, jack's, axle stands, breaker bar, etc etc will probably run to several hundred quid.

    I am slowly building up my collection of tools at the mo. its gonna take me years tog et to where i want as i aint blowing £500 on a bunch of tool's i'd rather spend it on the car itself.

    Butuz

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    Looser Konan555's Avatar
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    Air tools is my great temptation at the mo.

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    collage course and an old banger to do up is what you probably want
    hughlunnon@yahoo.com | I have sigs turned off..

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    Are you not better off with a set of ramps than a trolley jack?

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    Nah ramps are crap.

    How do you take a wheel or two off with a pair of ramps? :S

    Butuz

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    Looser Konan555's Avatar
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    Ramps are useful as are trolly jacks. Get both.

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    buy a decent socket/tool set, some wd40 and have an imagination..

    the tools DON'T NEED TO BE NEW! buying second hand good-brand tools is a smart move. Draper.. Teng - there are others.

    Most of the ****e I do involves the 10mm and 14mm sockets and spanners - why spend 100 quid on a toolkit when you're going to use 5% of the tools 90% of the time ?

    It's alot simpler than you think, just think about it and it will become quite clear.

    Cars are unnecessarily daunting things
    Last edited by atrull; 07-06-2006 at 01:07 AM.
    SmoothNuts!~yaman_an@*.dsl.pipex.com > change my rating to exceptional tbh

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    Treasure Hunter extraordinaire herulach's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BenW
    Are you not better off with a set of ramps than a trolley jack?
    Ever tried dropping a gearbox without a trolley jack? Theyre bloody heavy.

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    Quote Originally Posted by herulach
    Ever tried dropping a gearbox without a trolley jack? Theyre bloody heavy.
    dropping its easy. picking it up again is the hard bit
    hughlunnon@yahoo.com | I have sigs turned off..

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    Especially if its resting on your chest

    Butuz

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    Even though I'm a complete spanner novice , I've learnt a bucketload about the noble art of being a spanner monkey by helping out with the rebuid of my S13 - I do need to work on my swearing a little when droping a heavy item on a body part , but I'd like to think I'm getting there.

    when working on an old car , brute force and ignorance isn't everything , but it does help to shear a lot of bolts
    my Virtualisation Blog http://jfvi.co.uk Virtualisation Podcast http://vsoup.net

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    old, but good :

    For those of us that have ever used a Haynes Manual (or Clymer or Chilton equivalents) in attempting home maintenance of a car or motorbike. For those who havn't used a Haynes Manual, these are the books aimed at those who want to fix their own vehicles and which keep qualified mechanics in paid employment putting things right afterwards. They are chock full of photos, diagrams and step-by-step instructions which are obvious if you are a fully qualified motor mechanic, but which are frighteningly sparse on detail for the average Joe in the street who wants to change a set of spark plugs on a 1981 VW Polo ....

    Haynes: Rotate anticlockwise.
    Translation: Clamp with molegrips (adjustable wrench) then beat repeatedly with hammer anticlockwise. You do know which way is anticlockwise, don't you?

    Haynes: Should remove easily.
    Translation: Will be corroded into place ... clamp with adjustable wrench then beat repeatedly with a hammer.

    Haynes: Remove small retaining clip.
    Translation: Take off 15 years of stubborn crud, it's there somewhere.

    Haynes: This is a snug fit.
    Translation: You will skin your knuckles! ... Clamp with adjustable wrench then beat repeatedly with hammer.

    Haynes: This is a tight fit.
    Translation: Not a hope in hell matey! ... Clamp with adjustable wrench then beat repeatedly with hammer.

    Haynes: As described in Chapter 7...
    Translation: That'll teach you not to read through before you start, now you are looking at scarey photos of the inside of a gearbox.

    Haynes: Locate ...
    Translation: This photo of a hex nut is the only clue we're giving you.

    Haynes: Pry...
    Translation: Hammer a screwdriver into...

    Haynes: Undo...
    Translation: Go buy a tin of WD40 (catering size).

    Haynes: Ease ...
    Translation: Apply superhuman strength to ...

    Haynes: Retain tiny spring...
    Translation: "Jeez what was that, it nearly had my eye out"!

    Haynes: Press and rotate to remove bulb...
    Translation: OK - that's the glass bit off, now fetch some good pliers to dig out the bayonet part and remaining glass shards.

    Haynes: Lightly...
    Translation: Start off lightly and build up till the veins on your forehead are throbbing then re-check the manual because what you are doing now cannot be considered "lightly".

    Haynes: Weekly checks...
    Translation: If it isn't broken don't fix it!

    Haynes: Routine maintenance...
    Translation: If it isn't broken... it's about to be!

    Haynes: One spanner rating (simple).
    Translation: Your Mum could do this... so how did you manage to botch it up?

    Haynes: Two spanner rating.
    Translation: Now you may think that you can do this because two is a low, tiny, ikkle number... but you also thought that the wiring diagram was a map of the Tokyo underground (in fact that would have been more use to you).

    Haynes: Three spanner rating (intermediate).
    Translation: Make sure you won't need your car for a couple of days and that your AA cover includes Home Start.
    Translation: But Novas are easy to maintain right... right? So you think three Nova spanners has got to be like a 'regular car' two spanner job.

    Haynes: Four spanner rating.
    Translation: You are seriously considering this aren't you, you pleb!

    Haynes: Five spanner rating (expert).
    Translation: OK - but don't expect us to ride it afterwards!!!
    Translation #2: Don't ever carry your loved ones in it again and don't mention it to your insurance company.

    Haynes: If not, you can fabricate your own special tool like this...
    Translation: Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!!!!

    Haynes: Compress...
    Translation: Squeeze with all your might, jump up and down on, swear at, throw at the garage wall, then search for it in the dark corner of the garage whilst muttering "bugger" repeatedly under your breath.

    Haynes: Inspect...
    Translation: Squint at really hard and pretend you know what you are looking at, then declare in a loud knowing voice to your wife "Yep, as I thought, it's going to need a new one"!

    Haynes: Carefully...
    Translation: You are about to cut yourself!

    Haynes: Retaining nut...
    Translation: Yes, that's it, that big spherical blob of rust.

    Haynes: Get an assistant...
    Translation: Prepare to humiliate yourself in front of someone you know.

    Haynes: Turning the engine will be easier with the spark plugs removed.
    Translation: However, starting the engine afterwards will be much harder. Once that sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach has subsided, you can start to feel deeply ashamed as you gingerly refit the spark plugs.

    Haynes: Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.
    Translation: But you swear in different places.

    Haynes: Locate securing bolt.
    Translation: Remember that worrying noise when you drove along the A38 last summer? That's where you'll find the securing bolt.

    Haynes: Prise away plastic locating pegs...
    Translation: Snap off...

    Haynes: Remove drum retaining pin.
    Translation: Break every screwdriver in your box.

    Haynes: Using a suitable drift or pin-punch...
    Translation: The biggest nail in your tool box isn't a suitable drift!

    Haynes: Everyday toolkit
    Translation: Ensure you have an RAC Card & Mobile Phone

    Haynes: Apply moderate heat...
    Translation: Placing your mouth near it and huffing isn't moderate heat.
    Translation #2: Heat up until glowing red, if it still doesn't come undone use a hacksaw.
    Translation #3: Unless you have a blast furnace, don't bother. Clamp with adjustable wrench then beat repeatedly with hammer.

    Haynes: Index
    Translation: List of all the things in the book bar the thing you want to do!

    Haynes: Remove oil filter using an oil filter chain wrench or length of bicycle chain.
    Translation: Stick a screwdriver through it and beat handle repeatedly with a hammer.

    Haynes: Replace old gasket with a new one.
    Translation: I know I've got a tube of Krazy Glue around here somewhere.

    Haynes: Grease well before refitting.
    Translation: Spend an hour searching for your tub of grease before chancing upon a bottle of washing-up liquid (dish soap). Wipe some congealed washing up liquid from the dispenser nozzle and use that since it's got a similar texture and will probably get you to Halfords to buy some Castrol grease.

    Haynes: See illustration for details
    Translation: None of the illustrations notes will match the pictured exploded, numbered parts. The unit illustrated is from a previous or variant model. The actual location of the unit is never given.

    Haynes: Drain off all fluids before removing cap.
    Translation: Visit bathroom, spit on ground, remove baseball cap in order to scratch head in perplexity.

    Haynes: Top up fluids.
    Translation: Drink 2 cans of beer and call out a mobile mechanic to undo the damage.

    For Added Haynes Fun, go to the first section "Safety First" and read the bit about Hydrofluoric Acid. Would you really trust the advice of a book that uses this form of understatement?

    The best one I encountered was how to change a brake sensor in a Ford Fiesta Popular Plus. The photo showing the location of the unit failed to mention the crucial detail of whether the item was located in the engine compartment or inside the car ..... and the helpful photo of what the thing looked like didn't give the reader any clues!



    THE CONDENSED HAYNES MANUAL
    All makes and models post-2000

    For a modern car chock full of electronics, all that's in the Haynes Manual (aka "The Haynes Bumper Book of Jokes") is:

    Routine Service: Take it to a main dealer and hand over a large amount of cash.

    Advanced Service: Open the bonnet. Decide all that stuff is far too scary. Proceed with routine service (see above).



    HAYNES GUIDE TO TOOLS OF THE TRADE

    HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer is nowadays used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit.

    MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes containing seats and motorcycle jackets.

    ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling mounting holes just above the brake line that goes to the rear wheel.

    PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads.

    HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

    MOLE-GRIPS/ADJUSTABLE WRENCH: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

    OXYACETELENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your garage on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside a brake-drum you're trying to get the bearing race out of.

    WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching for for the last 15 minutes.

    DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted part you were drying.

    WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and hard-earned guitar callouses in about the time it takes you to say, "F...."

    HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering car to the ground after you have installed your new front disk brake setup, trapping the jack handle firmly under the front wing (fender).

    EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering a car upward off a hydraulic jack.

    TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.

    PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbour to see if he has another hydraulic floor jack.

    SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot.

    BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and is ten times harder than any known drill bit.

    TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup.

    TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile strength of ground straps and brake lines you may have forgotten to disconnect.

    CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end without the handle.

    BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid from a car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that your battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought.

    AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.

    INSPECTION LIGHT: The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate as 105-mm howitzer shells during the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.

    PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads.

    AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a fossil-fuel burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts last tightened 30 years ago by someone in Dagenham, and rounds them off.

    PRY (CROW) BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

    HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses 1/2 inch too short.
    hughlunnon@yahoo.com | I have sigs turned off..

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