Shhh terbinator, don't let them know that our H50s and LGA1156 setups are inferior
Shhh terbinator, don't let them know that our H50s and LGA1156 setups are inferior
That's a massive case - the WC kit looks lost in it! I expect my summer project will look somewhat different (I'll be water cooling Kali (my sig rig) in an old midi-tower - should be fun!). AFAICT a 3x120 should *just* fit in the roof of the case, although where I'll be putting the PSU after that is another question...
the question is, how do i spanner in 2 tripple rads on a 700d
Nice, however when you're spending that much money I would of got a motherboard that matched with the colour scheme.
although without a window it's also a bit pointless worrying over colour scheme in the first place.
PS here's what a corsair 800d looks like after Bill Owen get's his hands on it.
[rem IMG]https://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i45/pob_aka_robg/Spork/project_spork.jpg[rem /IMG] [rem IMG]https://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i45/pob_aka_robg/dichotomy/dichotomy_footer_zps1c040519.jpg[rem /IMG]
Pob's new mod, Soviet Pob Propaganda style Laptop.
"Are you suggesting that I can't punch an entire dimension into submission?" - Flying squirrel - The Red Panda Adventures
Sorry photobucket links broken
it would seem my 1250w enermax would stop a triple going in the bottom, although i could live with a triple sat on top of the case as thats how my coolermaster cosmos looks now !
that way i can have a rad mounted inside and with a custom plate to allow a top rad to be bolted on i could pull it off
either way im tempted when its time to add a pair of GTX 480's as the PA160 will have to go and the pa120.3 isnt enough for all that.
Triple in the roof dual in the base single on the back? (all should fit internally, even with a larger PSU)
I can do a reccy when mine arrives as i've got a 120.3 here (old spacing) and a 120.3 coming (new spacing), plus a couple of single rads, so i can have a measure up, i've only got a HX620 though so it's not as long, but if you send me the dimensions i'll measure up ...
Then again, maybe the 160 would fit at the back without blocking anything... would be too close i think though...
edit: in fact, with a bit of hacking you may be able to get a 120.4 in the roof... or got for a 140.3...
Damn, the possibilities!
you can always hang one off the back too dependant on space behind, if you need bolts give me a shout
edit: my suspicions are correct, a 480 will fit nicely with a small roof mod:
With a 120 down below:
sorry for the thread hijack
Last edited by TAKTAK; 10-05-2010 at 12:19 AM.
Not quite 2x120.3 but you could mod the bottom for a 120.2 (plenty of info on web) which wouldn't impact your longer PSU and then put a 120.1 in the standard exhaust at the rear, or even a 140.1. Then drop in a 120.3 in the top. Use the 140.1 at the rear as the heat dump for the pump and then the 120.2 as the main heat extractor after running through the CPU or GPU loop. I'm running a 120.1x2 for the CPU and 120.3 for the GPU without any mods in a 800D.
Fraz
I would not be that concerned about the color scheme.
Get rid of the clear tube and coils and get 2 mts of
http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/prod...oducts_id=1071
if you contact Tom, he will get this in within a few days.
You could also top if off with some.
http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/prod...roducts_id=388
As you said, with no window the color scheme is not that important but this will keep the critics happy.
Any way, nice build, keep up the good work and enjoy.
i think i could hack the 160 shroud to fit the 140 rear fan and a 120.2 in the bottom, chilled pc make a bracket to hang a rad off the rear but it wont fit a 140 fan mount
keep me posted taktak as i think we have the same plans with the old 120.3 that wont fit the top
Personally I think this is just ridiculously over the top.
My pump consumes 24W at full power (which I assume is at startup, with much less power needed during steady running), with almost all of that effort going into moving the water. The pump's power output will be dissipated throughout the loop as friction. Is it really ever worth buying a rad to cool down after the pump, especially one capable of dissipating several hundred watts?! I sorely doubt the pump even adds a degree of temperature to the water before the water hits a proper heat source (CPU, etc). I'm happy to be proved wrong with some actual fact-based evidence, but all I've heard so far is anecdotal evidence and people saying "put a radiator after the pump" in order to sound knowledgeable or something.
Isn't 2x120.3 itself over the top? Whether you buy into the heat dump for the pump, you may as well use the back mount since it's there? Sure, 120.3 + 120.2 should be "adequate" but why stop there? Drop in another 120.1 or 140.1. If you don't think it needs to go after then pump then mount it after the CPU/GPU. Another radiator surely couldn't hurt once you've already past the "this is way more heat extraction than I really need" point. Skinnee Labs and Martin's stuff archived there have heat dump and efficiency curves for the popular pumps. No idea how they translate to significant temperature changes. as I'm too lazy to read it all at the moment. I'll place a radiator between the pump and the CPU/GPU if it's convenient but won't go out of my way and cause further loop restriction just to achieve it.
It is kind of awe-inspiring, isn't it.
Makes me feeling like a right boring old git, as I was considering cooling my Q6600 and 8800GTX with a single 120.3...
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