Problems with my Peugeot 306 any ideas??

[dkmech]

Thats not true for all of them. Some do have 165/70/r13. Need the exact model.

[Sezikins]

Thank you. I checked and they were actually not manufacturers recommended size. Thank you for helping!!!

[stormin']

I had similar problem to others below - poor idling as well as cutting out at lights. A mumber of other forums suggest the poor quality of the Sagem SL96 ECU fitted the same as fitted on my 1998 1.4i. I had this checked out with an analyser and the report came back that the stepper motor was faulty. I had the stepper motor (which does control the tickover) replaced and this seemed to cure the stalling but the revs kept on varying from 750 to 1800 revs, not all the time but intermittently. When I took it back to the garage they replaced the stepper motor again but then it would not tickover at all. He replaced the old stepper motor and the same thing happened, it would not tickover at all. He then replaced the ECU which had no effect at all so he replaced the old one. On testing it with his analyser it said that there was an intermittent fault with the stepper motor!!! He replaced it with another one but this also had no effect. Now I have a car which will not tickover but otherwise drives fine.

Please has anyone any ideas what could be wrong?

[webgirly]

I'm having the same problem with my 306.

A couple of months ago, it began smelling very strongly of petrol, soon after, it started to bunny hop, stall (unusual since it's an auto!) making popping sounds, almost like backfiring, doesn't respond when I put my foot on the accelerator, (this doesn't always happen, but when I'm at junctions, roundabouts, going slowly basically), it's worse uphill too, revs very high, and sometimes runs away with me.

When the car gets moving, it's fine... it's more at take-off, although even when it's moving it's not 'right'.

The diagnostic light very occasionally comes on also.

I took it to the garage, and explained everything. The guy couldn't figure it out, at all. Eventually called out his mate with a diagnostics machine, who checked for errors. The computer threw up some random errors... the guy cleaned my... somethings, cam heads i think, the computer was reset, and it ran like a dream... for about... 2/3 days.. then went back to running really badly. It was then I noticed there was a small fuel leak at the rear tyre, right by where you fill the tank. It only really drips right after you pump petrol or if it's got more than a tenner in the tank... so long as it's not been parked at a severe angle.. but it's still there. I went back, told the guy that it was running crap again and pointed out the fuel leak. he didn't seem overly concerned. he took it for the afternoon... basically got the diagnostic machine out again, reset the computer, and nothing else. Car ran fine... for about... a week... then went again...

I've had the engine reset about... 4 or 5 times now... each time, it's runs fine, and it lasts in this state for varying amounts of time, but inevitably, end up running like a bag of crap.

The fuel line is STILL leaking, despite my asking him a bunch of times to fix that... and apparently now it's a common part to split and there is a big old backup of orders for it....

The latest time the computer was reset, it threw up an error with the lamba sensor... which I understand might cause the problems... so he's ordering a new part.. although this is the first time this error has been thrown up, so I'm starting to think he's grasping a little....

So, it is either
a) fuel line split
b) faulty engine management chip
c) lamba sensor
d) something completely different?

I want my car back!

[Gavpug]

I'm having the same problem with my 306.

A couple of months ago, it began smelling very strongly of petrol, soon after, it started to bunny hop, stall (unusual since it's an auto!) making popping sounds, almost like backfiring, doesn't respond when I put my foot on the accelerator, (this doesn't always happen, but when I'm at junctions, roundabouts, going slowly basically), it's worse uphill too, revs very high, and sometimes runs away with me.

When the car gets moving, it's fine... it's more at take-off, although even when it's moving it's not 'right'.

The diagnostic light very occasionally comes on also.

I took it to the garage, and explained everything. The guy couldn't figure it out, at all. Eventually called out his mate with a diagnostics machine, who checked for errors. The computer threw up some random errors... the guy cleaned my... somethings, cam heads i think, the computer was reset, and it ran like a dream... for about... 2/3 days.. then went back to running really badly. It was then I noticed there was a small fuel leak at the rear tyre, right by where you fill the tank. It only really drips right after you pump petrol or if it's got more than a tenner in the tank... so long as it's not been parked at a severe angle.. but it's still there. I went back, told the guy that it was running crap again and pointed out the fuel leak. he didn't seem overly concerned. he took it for the afternoon... basically got the diagnostic machine out again, reset the computer, and nothing else. Car ran fine... for about... a week... then went again...

I've had the engine reset about... 4 or 5 times now... each time, it's runs fine, and it lasts in this state for varying amounts of time, but inevitably, end up running like a bag of crap.

The fuel line is STILL leaking, despite my asking him a bunch of times to fix that... and apparently now it's a common part to split and there is a big old backup of orders for it....

The latest time the computer was reset, it threw up an error with the lamba sensor... which I understand might cause the problems... so he's ordering a new part.. although this is the first time this error has been thrown up, so I'm starting to think he's grasping a little....

So, it is either
a) fuel line split
b) faulty engine management chip
c) lamba sensor
d) something completely different?

I want my car back!

Alright luv, i had exactly the same problem its the lamba sensor, its need replacing plus the petrol leak might be from the fuel filter that on my car sits near the right rear tyre, get a bloke to have a look at it when u start the engine to c if it leaks. now selling my car, soo many problems its go to go. nissan 200sx is my next car... hopefully.. good luck anyway!

[slinks2182]

in relation to the prevoius post, i have had the excatuly same problem, bunny hopping and then an excess of power with the K light coming on before loss of power at high an low speeds. i have taken it to the garage on a number of occaions and nothing has been found. i have had the ecu unit replaced and the code rread twice with no errors coming up.

could this possibly mean that its one of the less expensive problems outlined in this thread rathre than the sensor detailed as posssibly that would have been on a code.

i have really lost my faith in this car now and have started to dislike driving it for fear of crashing whn i lose power

[webgirly]

Mine didn't come up on a code either, until about the 8th read, it's one of those things that can be totally undetected.... After reading this forum and taking it to get the emissions tested I suggested the lamba sensor and the guy there agreed, we fitted a new one, and BINGO! Been trouble free for about.... 8 months now... *touch wood*

[dkmech]

And the award for "diagnosing engine faults in Peugeot 106/306" goes to Hexus Forums!

*applause*

[scottjoshua]

Hi, I tried starting my 306 xt this morning and I typed in the immobiliser code fine but the red light stayed on as well as the green-and obviously the car was just turning over-Iwas subjected to public transport to get to work!
Im pretty sure its an immobiliser problem but if anyone can help it it would be much appriciated!
Please email me:
scott.joshua@landg.com

[paulvfr]

I had the same problems when i bought my 1400 306 it also had a oil leak from the head gasket so i so i replaced it and put a new cam belt on and did a full service on it and replaced the Ht leads from Halfords bosch ones.But still it was the same so i changed the stepper motor,coil pack,crank sensor,lamblar sensor,and still the same.a friend suggested in the dark checking if there was any sparks or tracking from the leads or coils when revving the engine and there was from the new leads.So i replaced them with proper ones from Peugeots (£32) and it is as good as new so this helps.

[Tourettes]

In my experience if the engine is idling erratically it probably is one of the following:

Spark plugs are faulty and need replacing or gapping.
Timing belt aint tensioned right
Your injectors are blocked or faulty
Air filter is clogged or old and crap
Air leak on the throttle body or carburettor

Other than i dunno

[bibbygibbs]

hi i need a fule pump for my 306 cabrolet and i got 1 from a seller on ebay that breaks pugs a citrens.
i got from a t reg model but mine is m reg, the seller said there the same but the terminals are different. can any1 advize me on this!!! thankyou for your help. can contact me at bibbygibbs at yahoo . co . uk

[SilentDeath]

Some kind of conspiracy to stick all the 306 problems into one 45-post-long thread so it appears there are a lot less problems, or has it always been like this?

[Butcher]

French cars, nuff said TBH.

[kirky1986]

I am having similar probs to the origional threads where idle revs jump between 1000-2500, but also with my 306 1.4 2001 "y" the light is constantly on as well as the cooling fans and the temperature gauge reading hot, as i was advised by a garage and mechanic friend to change both temp sensors i have done and still nothing i have alos changed the alternator as mine wasnt kicking out enought juice! or so peugeot told me but this has done absolutely nout! in addition to the problems every now and again my rev counter, speedo and fuel gauge will jus drop out (but revs are still there as well as acceleration) The ABS light, Engine management light and the airbag light like to come on make the occasional xmas tree type effect in my car (which is lovely at this time of year!!!!) usually when im stood in traffic and as soon as revs are applied they go off?!?!?!?! as if by magic! but i have also experienced the loss of power and bunny hopping stuff aswell. Phew finished!!! any ideas please!!! greatly welcomed!!!.

[beats_uk]

sorry to bring up an old thread guys but im haveing simalar probs with my pug, but they arent quite the same so was wondering what you all thorght.
Most mornings when the engine is cold,(doesnt matter on weather conditions) i start my 306 which will start fine, but i then get about 1/2 a mile down the road and it starts to jerk and i lose engine power (for 100yards or so), its almost like it wants to cut out, i put my foot down but dont really get any respsonse and it coughs a bit more and then will go. It seems to be getting worse, it more jerky and seems more likely to cut out more. After it has done this it will be fine for the rest of the journey until i start it again from cold.
cheers beats