power thingy

[Harkin]

I know I have seen on a watercooling forum before that an external device that didnt have to be modified was used. The guy bought it off ebay but Ive tried all night and cant find it or the forum I looked at. There must be something out there. The PSU wud work ofcourse but like I said for safety reasons with my curious 1yr old son walkin around I wud rather not take that chance.

[arthurleung]

I know I have seen on a watercooling forum before that an external device that didnt have to be modified was used. The guy bought it off ebay but Ive tried all night and cant find it or the forum I looked at. There must be something out there. The PSU wud work ofcourse but like I said for safety reasons with my curious 1yr old son walkin around I wud rather not take that chance.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?...4&doy=2m5#spec
Not sure what is the power rating of your water pump though, if it is over 1.2A you can't use this one.

[Harkin]

This is the rating of the power that the pump needs:
Nominal voltage 12 V DC
Operating voltage range 6 to 14 VDC
Nominal power (@ 12 V) 24 W
Nominal current (@ 12 V) 2 amps

So yeah 1.2A isnt gonna be enuf. Im surprised nobody knows of this thing Im talking about or hasn't seen one before.

[Harkin]

So no-one knows how to power a pump without bridging a PSU?

[aidanjt]

If you have a capable 12v DC adaptor and wire the pump in correctly it's easy to do, red (positive) to red, black (negative) to black, but it's just much more hassle free to hotwire a PSU's green and black pins on the ATX connector, it's safe, I've done it several times. Just make sure there isn't any leaks that can leak on the PSU (in a bottom mounted PSU case for e.g.)

[Harkin]

If you have a capable 12v DC adaptor and wire the pump in correctly it's easy to do, red (positive) to red, black (negative) to black, but it's just much more hassle free to hotwire a PSU's green and black pins on the ATX connector, it's safe, I've done it several times. Just make sure there isn't any leaks that can leak on the PSU (in a bottom mounted PSU case for e.g.)

I do understand that, hotwiring the PSU is just not what I wanna do(after thinkin about it) with kids running around and a curious 1yr old touching things, especially when I want to give it a 24hr leak test. I just tought somebody wud have seen or knows where I cud get the device I spoke of(it was made for this specific job). Ill just have to post on a specialist WC forum maybe they wud know

[Clunk]

I do understand that, hotwiring the PSU is just not what I wanna do(after thinkin about it) with kids running around and a curious 1yr old touching things, especially when I want to give it a 24hr leak test. I just tought somebody wud have seen or knows where I cud get the device I spoke of(it was made for this specific job). Ill just have to post on a specialist WC forum maybe they wud know

Ill bet most people on a specialist watercooling forum will tell you the same as everyone has already told you in the 2 threads you have here.

[aidanjt]

Indeed Clunk.

@Harkin: if you're afraid to short your PSUs 'on' wire then you'll need to buy a 12VDC/2A power unit, cut the end off, and wire it up to your pump. That's your only realistic alternative to using your PSU (which is a tidier, and safer solution imho).

[Harkin]

Indeed Clunk.

@Harkin: if you're afraid to short your PSUs 'on' wire then you'll need to buy a 12VDC/2A power unit, cut the end off, and wire it up to your pump. That's your only realistic alternative to using your PSU (which is a tidier, and safer solution imho).

Im not really afraid of shorting it, just not keen on leaving an exposed live source for curious kids to touch. But Ill have a look for a '12VDC/2A power unit'(which I think is safer cos I can insulate the connection with some insulation tape) and do it that way cos I just cant find what Ive seen before. Im aslo not keen on leaving a PSU lying around for 24hrs while im leak testing. I thought there wud be an easier solution readily available

[aidanjt]

The 12V version of this is rated up to 3A, should give you more than enough headroom:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?...=96964&doy=2m5

You'll have to jerry-rig the appropriate connector to the power supply in order to connect to the pump so little fingers don't pull at anything, a bit of solder will keep the wires together if you have a soldering iron handy.

[Harkin]

The 12V version of this is rated up to 3A, should give you more than enough headroom:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?...=96964&doy=2m5

You'll have to jerry-rig the appropriate connector to the power supply in order to connect to the pump so little fingers don't pull at anything, a bit of solder will keep the wires together if you have a soldering iron handy.

Seems that wud be perfect. Just to make sure, isnt a pump DC not AC? And what is jerry rigging lol

[aidanjt]

Whoops, that totally looked like a DC unit, well spotted :|
That probably wouldn't have went well if you hooked a DC motor into a AC supply :S
http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?...7&doy=2m5#spec
There, that's rated at 5A when switched to 12Vdc. Shows what happens when you get pissed off waiting all day for a package to be delivered. I'll look around for something less extreme. What pump unit do you have/are getting? It'll make it easier picking a cheap unit.

[Dorza]

I may get thrown on the george foreman for this but a 24H leak test is overkill. If it doesn't leak in the first 4 hours it shouldn't leak in the 24+ hours afterwards. I have never done a 24H leak test despite it being the thing to do everywhere online and I never had a leak. I may just be lucky I dunno. As long as you don't fiddle around too much with the hosing and connections it should be fine until the first maintenance providing you didn't have a leak when you did test it.

[aidanjt]

Well I'd personally encourage fiddling around with the loop during leak testing, that way you can be positively sure that it wont leak in production use when the loop will be most stationary minus tiny vibrations of the waterflow. But that's just me

As for testing duration, it totally depends on how paranoid and patient you are

[Harkin]

Laing D5 vario or Laing DDC with petras top, http://www.coolercases.co.uk/acatalog/Pump.html, they all on that page with the power ratings needed, thanx Sorry, I wish I knew this stuff better but rather be safe than sorry right

[aidanjt]

Yeah, well assuming you go for a Laing D5 vario (on maximum pump effort), it'll need just over 1.9A, so you're right there going for 2.0A supply on the safe side, I haven't seen anything on maplin that can handle >=2A @ 12Vdc other than that 5A variable brick I linked to before, but you might find something elsewhere. It would be handy if you have some molex extender s/splitters laying about for connecting to the pump (using the male end), just remember the yellow wire is for 12Vdc, that's what you want to connect to the power unit.

Hope that's enough to guide you in the right direction.