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Thread: My comp sucks

  1. #33
    bored out of my tiny mind malfunction's Avatar
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    • malfunction's system
      • Motherboard:
      • Gigabyte G1.Sniper (with daft heatsinks and annoying Killer NIC)
      • CPU:
      • Xeon X5670 (6 core LGA 1366) @ 4.4GHz
      • Memory:
      • 48GB DDR3 1600 (6 * 8GB)
      • Storage:
      • 1TB 840 Evo + 1TB 850 Evo
      • Graphics card(s):
      • 290X
      • PSU:
      • Antec True Power New 750W
      • Case:
      • Cooltek W2
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 10
      • Monitor(s):
      • Dell U2715H
    Quote Originally Posted by Big_Al
    Hmm, I'll have a look on Akasa's site for install instrucions as none came with it. I didn't think it could go on a wrong way round..... :edit: Found this. Am sure that's how I was doing it. Will try removing the PSU to get the HSF installed better tonight. I can now see how it would be installed wrongly as it looks to fit over the socket top (sort of a raised bit).

    But how would it recognize that it wasn't on right? Or would it get that from the heat build up in the CPU? Would the same thing happened if no HSF is on (not that I'm gonna be stupid enough to try that!)?
    Al - it wouldn't recognise it - it's just that the BIOS has a safeguard that makes it automatically shut down when the temp goes above a pre-set level (usually around 70 celcius). Cross your fingers if that is what's happening as it may have gotten too hot and fried the chip. HSF can go on the wrong way sometimes but it's obvious if you look at the base of the HSF and the socket as there's a raised section at the end of the socket and a corresponding section on the HS... i.e.

    Code:
    | | | | | | | | | | | | |
    | | | | | | | | | | | | |
    | | | | | | | | | | | | |
    | | | | | | | | | | | | |
    | | | | | | | | | | | | |
    \ | | | | | | | | | | |/
     \====================/
      [==============/
    
      _____.--.______/====]
     [====================]
    (Phear my ASCII art skills)...

  2. #34
    HEXUS.timelord. Zak33's Avatar
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    • Zak33's system
      • Storage:
      • Kingston HyperX SSD, Hitachi 1Tb
      • Graphics card(s):
      • Nvidia 1050
      • PSU:
      • Coolermaster 800w
      • Case:
      • Silverstone Fortress FT01
      • Operating System:
      • Win10
      • Internet:
      • Zen FTC uber speedy
    malfunction....that's just amazing

    nice work dude...

    now...I'm sure these new Athlons have an overheat shut down,like Malfunction says....so it should be OK.

    Unlike the older Athlon, which might be dead...those are much more prone to burn out

    Quote Originally Posted by Advice Trinity by Knoxville
    "The second you aren't paying attention to the tool you're using, it will take your fingers from you. It does not know sympathy." |
    "If you don't gaffer it, it will gaffer you" | "Belt and braces"

  3. #35
    'ave it. Skii's Avatar
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    In answer yo your question Al yes its perfectly possible to put the heat-sink on the wrong way around, the fact that its so easy to do on AMD boards is a particular bug-bear of mine.

    Are you getting a siren type sound out of your PC speaker by any chance ?

  4. #36
    HEXUS.timelord. Zak33's Avatar
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    • Zak33's system
      • Storage:
      • Kingston HyperX SSD, Hitachi 1Tb
      • Graphics card(s):
      • Nvidia 1050
      • PSU:
      • Coolermaster 800w
      • Case:
      • Silverstone Fortress FT01
      • Operating System:
      • Win10
      • Internet:
      • Zen FTC uber speedy
    just so you all know....

    Big_Al is at the pub

    Quote Originally Posted by Advice Trinity by Knoxville
    "The second you aren't paying attention to the tool you're using, it will take your fingers from you. It does not know sympathy." |
    "If you don't gaffer it, it will gaffer you" | "Belt and braces"

  5. #37
    HEXUS.social member Allen's Avatar
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    • Allen's system
      • Motherboard:
      • ASUS Maximus VIII Gene
      • CPU:
      • Intel Core i5 6600K
      • Memory:
      • 2 x 8GB Kingston HyperX Predator DDR4-3000
      • Storage:
      • 256GB Samsung 950 PRO NVMe M.2 (OS) + 2 x 512GB Samsung 960 EVO in RAID 0 (Games)
      • Graphics card(s):
      • ASUS ROG Strix GeForce GTX 1080 Ti OC
      • PSU:
      • XFX P1-650X-NLG9 XXX 650W Modular
      • Case:
      • Fractal Design Node 804
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 10 Home 64-bit
      • Monitor(s):
      • 27" BenQ XL2730Z + 23" Dell U2311H
      • Internet:
      • Virgin Media 200Mbps
    And I've only just got back!



    Yes, I've printed off the instruction from Akasa and only just realised the shape thing, so I'm hoping to god I have it the wrong way round! And that was some mighty fine ASCII skills there, malfunction. Thank you.

    I will look at this as soon as I get home. I'm just now hoping I've done no damage if it is in fact the wrong way round. I'm thinking of taking it all out of the case to make it easier to work on and that way I have no restriction (i.e. PSU and case) in putting the HSF on correctly. Then I can check it before putting it back into the case. Would that be a safe idea if I used the foam that came with the mobo and the ESD wrapping?

  6. #38
    HEXUS.timelord. Zak33's Avatar
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    • Zak33's system
      • Storage:
      • Kingston HyperX SSD, Hitachi 1Tb
      • Graphics card(s):
      • Nvidia 1050
      • PSU:
      • Coolermaster 800w
      • Case:
      • Silverstone Fortress FT01
      • Operating System:
      • Win10
      • Internet:
      • Zen FTC uber speedy
    hold up big bloke

    Try justtaking out the PSU cos itmight be easier then...(4 screws on the back of the case I guess) and then REMEMBER to plug all the fans back in before power up

    Also...use a PENCIL or CHOPSTICK to push down on the clips for that heatsink.....and if it'll fit, put summit under it to keep the mobo safe

    Quote Originally Posted by Advice Trinity by Knoxville
    "The second you aren't paying attention to the tool you're using, it will take your fingers from you. It does not know sympathy." |
    "If you don't gaffer it, it will gaffer you" | "Belt and braces"

  7. #39
    HEXUS.social member Allen's Avatar
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    • Allen's system
      • Motherboard:
      • ASUS Maximus VIII Gene
      • CPU:
      • Intel Core i5 6600K
      • Memory:
      • 2 x 8GB Kingston HyperX Predator DDR4-3000
      • Storage:
      • 256GB Samsung 950 PRO NVMe M.2 (OS) + 2 x 512GB Samsung 960 EVO in RAID 0 (Games)
      • Graphics card(s):
      • ASUS ROG Strix GeForce GTX 1080 Ti OC
      • PSU:
      • XFX P1-650X-NLG9 XXX 650W Modular
      • Case:
      • Fractal Design Node 804
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 10 Home 64-bit
      • Monitor(s):
      • 27" BenQ XL2730Z + 23" Dell U2311H
      • Internet:
      • Virgin Media 200Mbps
    Ooh, I use a screwdriver.... But the Akasa is good as it has a notch on the inside of the clip so the screwdriver can't slip out and damage the mobo!

    Taking out the PSU should provide plenty of room though, rather than taking the whole thing apart. I know what to do, I changed my PSU last night for a CWT one and it all went ok. Blooming LONG cables though!

  8. #40
    'ave it. Skii's Avatar
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    A good way of securing that heatsink is NOT to force down the clip on the side with a screwdriver - you are highly likely to slip and stab your mobo like a mofo.
    See that gap through the middle of the heatsink block that the metal strap feeds through ? jam your screwdriver in there and force the spring down, you can then pop the clip shut on the side without any tension on it

  9. #41
    HEXUS.social member Allen's Avatar
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    • Allen's system
      • Motherboard:
      • ASUS Maximus VIII Gene
      • CPU:
      • Intel Core i5 6600K
      • Memory:
      • 2 x 8GB Kingston HyperX Predator DDR4-3000
      • Storage:
      • 256GB Samsung 950 PRO NVMe M.2 (OS) + 2 x 512GB Samsung 960 EVO in RAID 0 (Games)
      • Graphics card(s):
      • ASUS ROG Strix GeForce GTX 1080 Ti OC
      • PSU:
      • XFX P1-650X-NLG9 XXX 650W Modular
      • Case:
      • Fractal Design Node 804
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 10 Home 64-bit
      • Monitor(s):
      • 27" BenQ XL2730Z + 23" Dell U2311H
      • Internet:
      • Virgin Media 200Mbps
    Yeah, that's the way I do it... but I have to remove the fan first to get the right angle.

  10. #42
    www.5lab.co.uk
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    might be the psu orr..

    have you tried blowing into the socket? sounds silly, but this happened once to me.. basically (i think) a bit of dust floated in when i pulled the old cpu off, and it was stopping a connection.. so try blowwing reallreally hard into it to clean any potential crap out. then push the chip in, and wiggle it a bit in a rotational fashion, this will help settle it in the socket...

    erm if neither the psu or that help.. then.. have you got an old mobo lying around? i managed to fry a mobo by plugging in a damn agp card.. 3 days after warentee passed as well..

    one final thing, if your just testing setups then you can rest the hsf on the cpu and apply light pressure onto opposite corners of it (with fan attatched) rather than trying to clip/unclip it each time. just remember its not securely attatched.. (only works with mobo horizontal)
    hughlunnon@yahoo.com | I have sigs turned off..

  11. #43
    www.5lab.co.uk
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    ooh hangon. make sure all jumpers are in factory default positions too.. you might have unwittingly put the cmos jumper onto 'reset' - that'll stop the b*gger from booting.. and take the mobo out of its tray and rest it on a cussion, to make sure nothing is shorting out the bottom of it. and take out everything including hdds etc, except gfx card (unless onboard is present) and 1 stick of ram. and the cpu. duh.
    hughlunnon@yahoo.com | I have sigs turned off..

  12. #44
    HEXUS.timelord. Zak33's Avatar
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    • Zak33's system
      • Storage:
      • Kingston HyperX SSD, Hitachi 1Tb
      • Graphics card(s):
      • Nvidia 1050
      • PSU:
      • Coolermaster 800w
      • Case:
      • Silverstone Fortress FT01
      • Operating System:
      • Win10
      • Internet:
      • Zen FTC uber speedy
    BLIMEY 5LAB.....GOOD POINT

    Is it the PSU faulty? the new one?

    Quote Originally Posted by Advice Trinity by Knoxville
    "The second you aren't paying attention to the tool you're using, it will take your fingers from you. It does not know sympathy." |
    "If you don't gaffer it, it will gaffer you" | "Belt and braces"

  13. #45
    HEXUS.social member Allen's Avatar
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    • Allen's system
      • Motherboard:
      • ASUS Maximus VIII Gene
      • CPU:
      • Intel Core i5 6600K
      • Memory:
      • 2 x 8GB Kingston HyperX Predator DDR4-3000
      • Storage:
      • 256GB Samsung 950 PRO NVMe M.2 (OS) + 2 x 512GB Samsung 960 EVO in RAID 0 (Games)
      • Graphics card(s):
      • ASUS ROG Strix GeForce GTX 1080 Ti OC
      • PSU:
      • XFX P1-650X-NLG9 XXX 650W Modular
      • Case:
      • Fractal Design Node 804
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 10 Home 64-bit
      • Monitor(s):
      • 27" BenQ XL2730Z + 23" Dell U2311H
      • Internet:
      • Virgin Media 200Mbps
    Don't think so, it booted fine with my original setup. I installed them seperately to check. First PSU, booted fine with all drives connected (though one wouldn't show up in Explorer due to Linux boot but showed up in System Device list thingy) and it was only after I had the PSU connected properly that I tried the new CPU.

    Also, I know the jumpers are correct. I've checked them enough times!

    2 are of importance, one selects the processor FSB default (option 1 is 100MHz, option 2 is 133MHz, 166MHz and 200MHz which I have selected) and the other is the CMOS reset.
    Last edited by Allen; 27-02-2004 at 03:25 PM.

  14. #46
    www.5lab.co.uk
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    yeah but you could have blown the psu anyways.. did you unplug it before installing the cpu? if not then it'd be trying to send 3v (iirc) thru one of the wires, which might have confused something. worth a try with your old psu anyways
    hughlunnon@yahoo.com | I have sigs turned off..

  15. #47
    HEXUS.social member Allen's Avatar
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    • Allen's system
      • Motherboard:
      • ASUS Maximus VIII Gene
      • CPU:
      • Intel Core i5 6600K
      • Memory:
      • 2 x 8GB Kingston HyperX Predator DDR4-3000
      • Storage:
      • 256GB Samsung 950 PRO NVMe M.2 (OS) + 2 x 512GB Samsung 960 EVO in RAID 0 (Games)
      • Graphics card(s):
      • ASUS ROG Strix GeForce GTX 1080 Ti OC
      • PSU:
      • XFX P1-650X-NLG9 XXX 650W Modular
      • Case:
      • Fractal Design Node 804
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 10 Home 64-bit
      • Monitor(s):
      • 27" BenQ XL2730Z + 23" Dell U2311H
      • Internet:
      • Virgin Media 200Mbps
    I didn't unplug the PSU from the board, but I had it switched off and the PSU disconnected completely from the wall. The green light was definately OFF on the mobo.

    Surely if the PSU was blown, the mobo would get no juice at all? I get the fans come on and the mobo light... and the drives kick in too.

  16. #48
    www.5lab.co.uk
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    not nessesarily, i've had psus go so that only 1 line goes.. i think i have had a 3.3v line go, which might mean the mobo can do some stuff but not everythign..

    worth a try, as everything is. are you sure your mobo can support 1.45v? if not you might have blown something on the mobo
    hughlunnon@yahoo.com | I have sigs turned off..

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