Corsair 800D, Watercooled log

[scaryjim]

Pump-->Rad-->CPU-->GPU-->Pump

That way the CPU is dumping it's minimal heat onto the GPU rather than the other way around

Hmm, I've wondered about this in the past - is there any disadvantage to having hot water running through the pump? I always assumed that it would be better to have pump -> cpu -> gpu -> rad so the water returning to the pump was nearer ambient (no idea why I thought that, mind you ). Mind you, thanks to GoNz0's extremely generous offer, I'm going to end up with a somewhat more complicated loop than that when I WC Kali this summer....

Oh, and p.s. - is that really a full 40cm length for the 120.3? I'm gonna have to remeasure my case...

[GoNz0]

ok the thing is, a loop is a very efficient cooling setup and there have been lots of trial and error in finding the best layout, taktaks got the best plan for a single loop single rad setup but the fact still remains the water is going so fast it only picks up by a few degrees and tbh most wont go over 40 degrees c and that is well under the pump limits, most are about 70 degrees C.

there will be no major set back if you have to route it a little different than ideal, you may see an extra degree on the cpu of video card but everything will be so much lower than air cooling it will be find

im trying to figure out if i can stuff my PA160 in the bottom of the case, if i can im going to go pump, 120.3 rad, cpu, motherboard blocks and back to the pump, then the VGA loops going to be pump 140.3 rad GPU1 pa160, GPU2 and pump.

at the end of the day the pump gets cooled by the water as its running through it, DDC get hot underneath anyway (well my 2 18w do) even with a fan pointing at there bottoms.

with my current setup my water temps sit idle about 27 and 28 degrees and will climb to mid 30's in game as the rads got plenty of give

they have gone up in the 40's in the peak of summer when the rooms been 30 degrees but thats summer for you

[TAKTAK]

better to find out b4 you fill the loop

also i notice a lack of drain port in there ?

you will regret it the 1st time you drain down

i just use a fill port on a t piece hanging down out the way until needed

The only thing i can find is:

Slots
2 PCI Express 2.0 x16 slots
f you ntend to nstall two expanson cards nto both PCI_E2 & PCI_E5 slots, these
two PCIE x16 lanes wll auto arrange from x16/ x0 to x8/ x8

I've got a blue plastic t-piece waiting to go in , i just need something to go on the third leg

[GoNz0]

i got a pair of these for my loops http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/prod...roducts_id=446

and it sounds like we have the same blue t pieces

[scaryjim]

... the water is going so fast it only picks up by a few degrees and tbh most wont go over 40 degrees c ...

Ah, right. I know water has a very high specific heat, but I assumed it would get hotter than that!

[GoNz0]

even with my very restricted water block (koolance 350) it should still shoot 1.4 gallons per minute, thats about 3 2lt pop bottles of fluid flying round every minute, its a lot when you think of it like that

you cant fill the res top fast enough when priming the system

[scaryjim]

you cant fill the res top fast enough when priming the system

Yeah, I assume even a biggish loop like your old SLI + mobo blocks one still only holds about a litre of fluid? I guess when you think of it like that it makes sense that the water won't stay in any one block long enough to get *very* hot...

[GoNz0]

the pa160 loop uses about 1lt, the pa120.3 loop uses about 1.5lt

[TAKTAK]

Right, drive bay stealthing in the 800D, i also made a new thread for it, http://forums.hexus.net/chassis-syst...tealthing.html, as it seems that there are lots of people looking of ways to do it, so here goes my method:


Previous:





Blanking plate:





Cut it's legs off:





Cut the flanges off:





Sand it down to get it as flat as required, then take the button off the previous bezel and glue it on:





Naked drive:



Add some foam (from RASA packaging) using double sided sticky tape:



The foam is needed for the front of the drive to protrude beyond the metal casing of the drive

I needed to cut the button down a little bit:





Drive in the front:



Stealth plate on:



Just press the bottom corner to open the drive:

[GoNz0]

haha you said flange


/gets coat


nice little mod there, i wouldnt have thought to faf with the button as you can open with windows

[TAKTAK]

haha you said flange


/gets coat


nice little mod there, i wouldnt have thought to faf with the button as you can open with windows

You've gotta love a bit of flange

It seems i didn't need to make the other thread, Googles picked this one up high in the ranks allready

[Hicks12]

Nice work mate, noticed your dremel in the corner of one of those pics. Care to recommend it? If so whats the name/model? I need to getmyself a dremel but not sure if i want to get a full fledged original dremel .

[TAKTAK]

Nice work mate, noticed your dremel in the corner of one of those pics. Care to recommend it? If so whats the name/model? I need to getmyself a dremel but not sure if i want to get a full fledged original dremel .

Thanks

It's a Dremel 300, so decent quality as it's made by Bosch.

But at £30 it doesn't really pay to go with an alternative make:

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=152683



edit: having said that you can get a bundle of bits with one for just under £30, no idea as to the quality though:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?...23105&T=Module

[Hicks12]

Well i guess thats news for me then I always thought dremels were in like £90+ but £30 seems reasonable. Dont know how good that maplin one is but Im sure i can get dremel accessories for £10 or something off ebay so that wont matter.

Thanks for links!.

[TAKTAK]

Well i guess thats news for me then I always thought dremels were in like £90+ but £30 seems reasonable. Dont know how good that maplin one is but Im sure i can get dremel accessories for £10 or something off ebay so that wont matter.

Thanks for links!.

Some of them are in the £90's and more, mainly the cordless ones (you've got to remember to charge it before use [which i just couldn't plan that far ahead... ]) and the 400 series are expensive too, but all you really need is the cheap 300 series, it has variable speed and works well

You can get cheaper bits from Silverline:

http://www.silverlinetools.com/products/d86/s706

I'm not entirely sure if they'll deal with the general public, but you'll be able to find their products online at for example Amazon

[TheAnimus]

Some loverly work there TAKTAK! Looks greats, clean with the cabling too.