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About LinkBacksMaybe I need to pop into more specialist shops like Sony Entertainment Centre or Jessops, as they do camcorders they might stock them.....thanx for the info though.Originally Posted by skotbites
Maybe I need to pop into more specialist shops like Sony Entertainment Centre or Jessops, as they do camcorders they might stock them.....thanx for the info though.
What about this:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/products/mod...moduleno=30310
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wouldnt be good enough. costs loads too... but if you wanted to use it, you would also need to add a largish capacitor to it to smooth out all the spikes from the PWM.
I can make a few psu circuits based on the lm317 or lm0805 if any one wants...?
Ah OK SilentDeath, cheers.
I've put together my maplin shopping list, but will have a chat with them for any recommendations.
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Well I've got the circuit built! I've not tested it on the LCD yet, but it is powering a fan and is outputting 7.55V.
I did discover that the LM317T is capable of burning your finger if you touch it and have wired it up wrong!
edit: OK I now have it working, sort of. I wired the thing up, and the LCD turned on, yay! However, the image wasn't quite as it was when run off the power block. I checked the voltages and they came back as 12! Now seeing as though the LCD works, I can only presume that the reg is still working OK, but the new power supply is meaning the clock on the PCB is running at a slightly different speed, messing up pixel timings, or something like.
No more tweaking tonight - but ideas welcome...
Last edited by Steve; 01-06-2004 at 04:23 PM.
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what points were you measuring at 12v? I hope not the outputs to lcd! (I would have thought it wouldnt last long at that...)
Most likley you need a big smoothing capacitor there. LCD's need precise timings etc.. and these regulators give good RMS (average) voltages, but if you look under a ossiloscope you will find it looks like this:
7.55v_/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
_____|
0v___|
(_'s to keep the pic lined up)
Which will affect it slightly..
Solution is to stick a largish capacitor inline with the positive regualtor output. Make sure the cap is rated for atleast 10v. I will be using a 16v 1200uF cap if I have any problems (from a dead nf7-s). The psu cube uses a 16v 680uF which would be plenty as the cube needs it more than these regulators. Also you need to make sure the cap is the right way round, with positive leg to reg ouput and neg to the lcd.
Anyway the timings will be slightly different, it might be that your regulator is better than the psu block but the timings just need adjusting.
Last edited by SilentDeath; 01-06-2004 at 07:09 PM.
Erm, let's just say the CCFL looked a bit bright...Inline, so not bridging the regged output and common? I will have to find something to pilfer it from - infact there's an old 486 which is bound to have something in it...Solution is to stick a largish capacitor inline with the positive regualtor output. Make sure the cap is rated for atleast 10v.
Cheers |SilentDeath|!
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Hi everybody My (nick)name is Frantic. I'm from the netherlands(plz don't make fun) and i am really interested in making a PSone lcd screen mod for my PC.
Ok. I'm just gonna be bold and ask a question. ( if you don't mind (not really that bold am i ?
The thing is. I'm not an electrotechnical Genius. But i do want a PSone screen.
I know i can get one (the original Pal version) but i have no soldering Skills, and don't know anything about capacitors and resistors and stuff. Would you think that it is possible (please forgive me if i misread any of the previous posts wich might have answered my question) that i get a PSone LCD screen working on the S-video out or 2nd monitor connector of my GF Fx 5600, without (possibly) damaging my GFX card?
Just "paste" it on the front of my case, and connect it to my S-Video out or 2nd monitor plug, I don't mind soldering a different plug on cable's and relatively simple things like that (when i see you ppl (silentDeath and Kez)) talk about all the parts they used i really don't get it.
(SilentDeath. i saw that u offered someone to make one for them. What would that cost me ?(all included.)
Thanks for even reading this, and i hope someone can help me.
Daan AKA Frantic
Last edited by Frantic; 01-06-2004 at 10:51 PM. Reason: type-o
kez i think the cap would go inline, but it might be bridging +v and common. This was about the time I left the electronics course
If its inline it would possibly act as a resistance - well I know 2 caps in series would act as a resistance.
If parrelell it is possibly shorting out the reg, I cant remember....
I would try inline first, as it is less likely to damage anything in my opinion (with my rather limited knowledge), though I wouldnt expect damage from tryign either way round, best test it with a fan first
for the capacitor also probably good to use a 12v or higher rated one - just incase you get probs like the one you seem to have now
16v is the closest and probably the best min chioce.
this is just to make sure the cap wont explode and kill components around it, the screen for example
Frantic I would be happy to help you and I can mod a screen for you if you want. The problem is that your from the netherlands so you would have to find out all of the shiping, and other costs if there are any, aswell as an easy way to pay me (not paypal). Ive got nochex, not sure if you would have that where you are?
Possibly send me cash (must be english £ though, not other currency) if thats easyer?
The actual soldering and stuff is quite easy. if you want to try yourself get a few cheap components like resistors and some wire and strip board/dead card and practice on that untill you are good at it..
Well for power you can just run it off the power brick.
You could use TV-Out for the display, thus no soldering required. However, it seems some people are having problems with TV out, perhaps.
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Um, Silent do you think the resistance of the screen could be affecting the voltage regulator?
I'll append a diagram to this 'ere post in a couple of minutes...
This is what I have so far (or thereabouts, the resistances are made up from more than one resistor/pot, but everything else is accurate.)
Now, if there's a varying level of resistance over Out+ and GND, then basically you've got a parallel set of resistance, which could possibly mess rather a lot with the regulator. Furthmore am I right in thinking the LCD is more inductive than resistive?
Other than that I may have also found a dodgy bit of soldering that may be the cause...
Last edited by Steve; 02-06-2004 at 05:31 PM.
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With the LM317, if you use a load that is lower than the one you used to set the voltage value, then the output voltage rises. This is likely what has happened in your case where you set the voltage using a fan and then plugged it into the LCD. Have you used a pot to adjust the voltages or are you just using std resistors?
Just had another read of the datasheet of the LM317, it is actually the load current is too small that causes the output voltage to rise. So the LCD may not be pulling enough current to stabalise the regulator.
Thanks for the input, but I think it was dodgy wiring that was the problem
Got 7.48V now... with it plugged into the LCD.
Just wiring up a more permenant solution....
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elglg - I expect I will have that problem as I got 317's rated for 1.5A instead of the smaller (0.5A?) one.
What would be a good thing to put on it to add load?
I have the 317T rated to over 1.5A and don't have that problem...
Also, what colour depth you using?
edit: Also be warned, the 317's heatsink (and I got a reasonable one) runs rather hot when under load! Also the tab on the 317 is attached to output, so at the moment I've got some electrical tape around it - but intend to put it in a little box or something...
Last edited by Steve; 02-06-2004 at 06:27 PM.
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